LUXURIANCE OF FUNGUOUS FLESH (MEYER LEMON)
The Meyer lemon (Citrus x meyeri), named after the tiger-fighting plant explorer Frank Meyer is this week's subject, but they go way further back than that. This sour fruit tree was traded to all corners of the world and cultivated for thousands of years before, and even to this day it can be a life saver...
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Cover art by Jillian Barthold
Music by Aves and The Mini-Vandals
Episode cover photo by Debra Roby
Crispy Chicken Thighs with Meyer Lemon Salsa Verde by Spencer Huey:
If I had to choose just one way to cook chicken, this would be it. The chicken slowly renders resulting in golden brown, crunchy skin while the meat remains juicy, flavorful and well seasoned. This chicken goes perfectly with the Italian herby sauce called salsa verde, this version highlighting the zesty and prized Meyer lemon.
Crispy Chicken Thighs
Ingredients
6 bone-in chicken thighs
kosher salt
neutral oil
Method
Debone the thighs with a sharp small knife by cutting on each side of the bone and then continue working the knife under the bone entirely (Kitchen shears work as well). Season liberally with salt on both sides. Season beforehand if possible (night before is great; even an hour helps).
Temper the chicken by removing it from the fridge about 1 hour before you plan to cook it; this helps it to cook more evenly. Heat a cast iron pan on medium low heat, put in a little oil and lower the thighs in skin side down. Don’t crowd the pan; cook in batches. Let the thighs cook undisturbed (spin the pan around the burner to distribute the heat evenly) until the chicken skin gets golden brown and crispy and the meat is about 75% cooked through (8-12 min).
Flip and cook for 3-4 min. Remove thighs and place on a plate to rest for 5 min. Repeat with remaining thighs.
To serve, cut the chicken thighs in thick slices and spoon some of the Meyer lemon salsa verde on top. Serve the rest of the salsa verde in a bowl on the side.
Meyer Lemon Salsa Verde
Ingredients
2 Meyer lemons (4 tablespoons lemon bits and zest of 1 lemon)
1 bunch parsley (leaves picked off the stem, finely chopped, about ½ cup lightly packed)
1 medium garlic clove, grated on a microplane
1 tablespoon capers, finely chopped
2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (high encouraged but optional)
salt
extra virgin olive oil to cover ingredients (about 1/2 cup)
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
Method
Using a sharp knife, quarter the lemon lengthwise. Filet out the membrane and fruit leaving 4 pieces of skin and pith. Make long, thin slices, turn and finely dice the lemon skin. Place into a bowl along with the zest of the other lemon. Add the parsley, grated garlic (use a microplane), capers, and anchovy. Season with salt and pour enough olive oil to barely cover to form a thick sauce. Stir, taste and adjust for salt.
Right before serving add the red wine vinegar. Taste and balance with vinegar and salt. It should be very flavorful, slightly salty and very bright with the acid.
Notes
This sauce is great on anything: from meats to eggs to grilled vegetables to bread and rice. Feel free to mix up the herbs (cilantro, green onions, mint, basil, chives), acids (citrus juice, vinegars), add finely diced shallot macerated in vinegar, roasted and chopped nuts (almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts), toasted bread crumbs, chili pepper, etc. Choose your own adventure by making different herby salsas. This recipe serves 4-6.
Additional Reading:
The Meyer lemon (Citrus meyeri)
Book of this week:
The Story of Trees and how they changed the way we live, by Kevin Hobbs and David West
Other book of the week:
Urban Forests by Jill Jonnes
A bit on Frank from the USDA
James Lind and Scurvy